Monthly Archives: April 2012

Afghanistan: The summit of hope

Truly inspiring… Many ideas coming to my mind right now 🙂

Afghanistan: The summit of hope

Piolets d’or 2012 winners

The ascent of Saser Kangri II – the second highest previously unclimbed mountain in the world – is an example of classic exploratory alpinism and committed alpine style climbing at high altitude. The summit was reached via the steep 1,700 metre south-west face after four days of ascent and three bivouacs with the main difficulties concentrated in the upper part of the climb. A wealth of experience enabled the team to take a very minimal lightweight alpine style approach in achieving the first ascent of the peak. Ascent by Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson, USA.
Video by Vinicio Stefanello (Planetmountain.com) & Francesco Mansutti for the Piolets d’Or 2012. Courmayeur, Chamonix – Mont Blanc.

Saser Kangri II – Piolets d’or 2012

 

This three-day alpine style ascent of the previously unclimbed north-west face via a 1,600m sustained mixed route was the third ascent of this famous summit in the Charakusa valley. This young team took their experience of climbing in their home mountains of Slovenia on their first trip to the Himalaya, and used exceptional judgement and commitment on this highly technical climb. The route involved a strong element of exploration and was carried out in minimalist style by a team of non-professional climbers. Ascent by Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar, Slovenia.
Video by Vinicio Stefanello (Planetmountain.com) & Francesco Mansutti for the Piolets d’Or 2012. Courmayeur, Chamonix – Mont Blanc.

K7 West – Piolets d’or 2012

Gasherbrum II 8035mt – First Winter Ascent Ever – 2nd February 2011

BREATHTAKING…

Gasherbrum II 8035mt – First Winter Ascent Ever – 2nd February 2011

If Ueli can do it…

For those that keep saying my training plan for my upcoming expedition in nuts, this is Ueli Steck’s (the fastest climber in the world) climbing training plan:

MONDAY > 1 hour running–Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour stabilization (core) training / slideshow
TUESDAY > 2 hours running–Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
WEDNESDAY > 4 hours climbing in the gym / 2 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1/2 hour stretching / slideshow
THURSDAY > 4 hours climbing in the gym / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
FRIDAY > 1.5 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
SATURDAY > 3.5 hours running–Intensity 4 / 1 hour stretching / slideshow
SUNDAY (REST DAY) > Climbing with my wife 4 hours / 1 hour stretching

If Ueli can do it, why do you think I can’t???? I just need to quit my job and find a wife 🙂

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