Category Archives: Micro-expeditions

Bolivian Peaks–6 Peaks in 12 Days!

Climbing 6 peaks ranging from 5320m to 6438m, just in 12 days!

 

Bolivian peaks 4_thumb[4]

 

My 12km in 12Days challenge in 2014 was an unforgettable experience, where I met my friend Walter George, AGMP/UIAGM Mountain Guide in Peru, and we aimed to climb two 6000m peaks in twelve days.

This year we’ll be conquering some of the most spectacular peaks in Cordillera Real in Bolivia, home to more than 600 peaks over 5000m.

We are aiming to climb CERRO AUSTRIA, PIRAMIDE BLANCA, PEQUEÑO ALPAMAYO, CABEZA DE CONDOR, HUAYNA POTOSI, and the jewel crown ILLIMANY. Our plan is to conquer all 6 peaks ranging from 5320m to 6438m, just in 12 days!

 

June 16 – Day 1: Flight from Madrid to Santa Cruz, connecting flight to La Paz

June 17 – Day 2: Arriving in La Paz 3700m – Muela de Diablo acclimatization hike (3825m)

June 18 – Day 3: Basecamp Condoriri, Laguna Chiar Khota (4600m)

June 19 – Day 4: Cerro Austria (5000m)

June 20 – Day 5: Pyramide Blanca (5230m)

June 21 – Day 6: Pequeño Alpamayo (5370m)

June 22 – Day 7: Cabeza de Condor (5483m)

June 23 – Day 8: Rest day in La Paz

June 24 – Day 9: High Camp Huayna Potosi

June 25 – Day 10: Summit Huayna Potosi (6088m) and drive back to La Paz

June 26 – Day 11: Rest day in La Paz

June 27 – Day 12: Base Camp Illimani

June 28 – Day 13: High Camp Illimani

June 29 – Day 14: Summit Illimani (6438m)

June 30 – Day 15: Back to La Paz, end of the expedition

 

Competing in the ICEMAN Polar Challenge, the ultimate Arctic Adventure Race!

ICEMAN Arctic Adventure Race followed by Mountaineering Expedition to Liverpool Land in Greenland.

What is the best way to practice everything learnt in a Polar Training? Competing in the ICEMAN Polar Challenge, the ultimate Arctic Adventure Race!

Iceman Polar

Bordering the world’s largest frozen fjord and biggest National Park, the race route traces on of the most stunningly remote regions of the high arctic. Hurry Fjord, the spectacular Liverpool Land mountains and Greenland’s most isolated village, Ittoqqortoormiit form the backdrop to the latest in extreme adventure racing.

The emphasis on this three weeks expedition will be on gaining good all round winter Arctic and polar experience and learning to operate safely whilst ski touring and pulk sledge hauling. The initial Polar Training and Adventure Race will involve fantastic opportunities to travel on a variety of terrain including frozen fjords, icecaps, glaciers, valleys and sea ice. A small and dedicated team will pull pulks throughout the ICEMAN Arctic Adventure Race route and be camping in full snow and winter conditions.

Competitors will endure challenging sub-zero temperatures and test their skill, commitment and resilience on this multi-day adventure. This is the world’s toughest Arctic mountain ski race. Beautiful, tough and absolutely unforgettable.

Once the training and race are completed on the first week, a small and dedicated team will depart from Constable Point by snowmobile with an aim to establish base camp in the Sødal valley where easy access can be gained on to the Bjering Pedersens icecap. This high icecap offers access to numerous peaks with unparalleled views of other alpine summits, glaciers and the ice berg studded east coast. Camping will be in full snow and winter conditions throughout for the remaining of the three week’s expedition.

The beauty of the area is that there isn’t any climbing history, guidebooks or detailed maps. It’s true exploratory mountaineering in its purest form. The more obvious summits have been climbed, but only by their easiest routes, so anything other than that will be a first ascent. There are hundreds of routes in the region, so plenty to go at! We’ll probably want to climb the high peak of Korsbjerg as well.

Artic Mountaineering and Bolivian Peaks: 2 months to go!

It´s been a long time since I set off for my last mountaineering challenge, 12Km in 12Days, back in July 2014… Today marks the countdown for a new double challenge starting in the Artic and finishing in Bolivia.

Exactly two months from today, I’ll set off to Reykjavik from my second home in Madrid. From there I’ll transfer to Akureyri in Iceland, where I’ll meet my expedition leader and partners before we board a small airplane that will take us to our Artic playground: The Liverpool Land peninsula in eastern GREENLAND! One week of Polar Training for prospective North & South Pole expeditions and Greenland Icecap crossings, followed by two week’s Arctic Mountaineering expedition in Liverpool Land. Our aim is to stablish base camp in the Sødal valley where easy access can be gained on to the Bjering Pedersens icecap. This high icecap offers access to numerous peaks with unparalleled views of other alpine summits, glaciers and the ice berg studded east coast, and offers the opportunity for rare ski and mountaineering ascents of remote arctic summits in this amazing and rarely visited region of the High Arctic. We are looking to climb some virgin peaks, as well as opening new routes in classics such as Tvillingerne or Korsbjerg.

Two months later I’ll be conquering some of the most spectacular peaks in Cordillera Real in Bolivia, home to more than 600 peaks over 5000m. My plan is to conquer 6 peaks in 12 days. My 12km in 12Days challenge in 2014 was an unforgettable experience, where I met my friend Walter George, AGMP/UIAGM Mountain Guide in Peru, and we aimed to climb two 6000m peaks in twelve days. This year we are aiming to climb CERRO AUSTRIA, PIRAMIDE BLANCA, PEQUEÑO ALPAMAYO, CABEZA DE CONDOR, HUAYNA POTOSI, and the jewel crown ILLIMANY! All six peaks ranging from 5320m to 6438m, just in twelve days.

I’ve been quite busy working out all logistics and setting up an ambitious training plan, considering I’ve been in the dry docks for about two years now. Today the start of my training plan kicks off, and I’ll be posting some interesting stuff in my Facebook page and blog, for those friends interested on learning more about mountaineering and how to train for challenges in the Artic, Bolivia, or anywhere else in this wonderful planet we call HOME.

 

Topography-and-bathymetry-map-of-the-Arctic-region-at-15M-scale-in-a-polar-stereographic

Check-in/OK message from SPOT Clayton-2

Clayton-2
Latitude:-8.91240
Longitude:-77.58185
GPS location Date/Time:07/22/2014 20:24:42 GST

Punta Union Pass, 4750m. I’m in heaven…

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/I9Y2J/8.91240S/77.58185W

 

Check-in/OK message from SPOT Clayton-2

Clayton-2
Latitude:-8.89291
Longitude:-77.63482
GPS location Date/Time:07/22/2014 05:16:13 GST

+1m snow. All climbers abandon. End of 12k12d

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/I8rmq/8.89291S/77.63482W

 

Custom message from SPOT GEN3

GEN3
Latitude:-8.87921
Longitude:-77.65286
GPS location Date/Time:07/20/2014 15:38:35 GST

I made it to the summit, coming down safe and happy!

He llegado a la cumbre, estoy bajando a salvo y feliz!

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/I6m-Z/8.87921S/77.65286W

 

Check-in/OK message from SPOT Clayton-2

Clayton-2
Latitude:-8.88387
Longitude:-77.65582
GPS location Date/Time:07/20/2014 02:52:14 GST

Climbing Alpamayo, Summit Push!!!

Escalando Alpamayo, ataque a la cumbre!!!

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/I6H3v/8.88387S/77.65582W

 

Check-in/OK message from SPOT GEN3

GEN3
Latitude:-8.88383
Longitude:-77.65588
GPS location Date/Time:07/19/2014 22:09:40 GST

Climbing Alpamayo and Quitaraju. I’m doing well!

Escalando Alpamayo y Quitaraju. Voy bien!

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/I5yOh/8.88383S/77.65588W

 

Check-in/OK message from SPOT Clayton-2

Clayton-2
Latitude:-8.89075
Longitude:-77.64703
GPS location Date/Time:07/19/2014 03:44:33 GST

Climbing Alpamayo + Quitaraju, resting at High Camp.

Escalando Alpamayo, descansando en Campamento de Altura

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/I51Hr/8.89075S/77.64703W

 

Check-in/OK message from SPOT GEN3

GEN3
Latitude:-8.89081
Longitude:-77.64706
GPS location Date/Time:07/18/2014 22:26:47 GST

Climbing Alpamayo and Quitaraju. I’m doing well!

Escalando Alpamayo y Quitaraju. Voy bien!

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/I4W9j/8.89081S/77.64706W