Category Archives: Jentim Bel

Tien Shan Unclimbed Peaks & Lord of the Skies – Dispatches from the expedition Part II

Aug2: Just had the most hilarious night with my climbing team mates. Alcoholic night before we get back to the mountains. These folks are awesome, I LOVE CLIMBING ♥

 

Aug3: We just arrived to Karakol where I have good internet connectivity. Before I could just send updates via satellite, but no seeing comments on them, your kind words, blessings and wishes… You all have no idea of how happy I feel today, after reading ALL of them. The week has been hard, and this is just the beginning of this adventure up to the top of a difficult 7000m. THANK YOU SO MUCH for your support, now my batteries are fully charged with all your positive energy. I need to sort out some logistics in this village but I’ll reply to you all tonight!

 

Aug3: Some of my team mates went to sleep already while some of us are so nervous that we can’t make it yet, despite of the fact tomorrow we have a very early start, 6 hours drive to a small airstrip where we’ll take a russian helicopter to fly all the way up to Base Camp. I wish I’d feel stronger on the legs, but I can’t feel better on my heart after reading your comments today. I LOVE CLIMBING AND I LOVE MY FRIENDS ♥

GPS location 42.15264, 77.5429 Date/Time:08/03/2012 07:18:18 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=42.15264%2C%2077.5429&q=42.15264N%2077.5429E&form=LMLTSN&cp=42.152666520380364~77.5429&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=42.15264,77.5429&ll=42.15264,77.5429&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Aug4: The hotel at Karakol was like a palace, but we have to leave for 6h drive to an airstrip where a russian helicopter will take us to Khan Tengri BC!

GPS location 42.08675, 79.24471 Date/Time:08/04/2012 16:19:58 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=42.08675%2C%2079.24471&q=42.08675N%2079.24471E&form=LMLTSN&cp=42.09451245798117~79.24471&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=42.08675,79.24471&ll=42.08675,79.24471&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Aug5: Heli flight was delayed till this morning. We had 30 min amazing flight over Inylchek glacier to land in front of Khan Tengri, breathtaking experience!!!

GPS location 42.24804, 80.14363 Date/Time:08/05/2012 18:51:17 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=42.24804%2C%2080.14363&q=42.24804N%2080.14363E&form=LMLTSN&cp=42.2480666092677~80.14363000000001&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=42.24804,80.14363&ll=42.24804,80.14363&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Aug6: Yesterday we crossed the glacier and cashed tents and gear close to BC 4005m. Today we set up Camp1 at 4500m and back to BC. 8h of hard yet beautiful work

GPS location 42.232, 80.1571 Date/Time:08/06/2012 10:41:59 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=42.232%2C%2080.1571&q=42.232N%2080.1571E&form=LMLTSN&cp=42.23202659430393~80.15709999999998&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=42.232,80.1571&ll=42.232,80.1571&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

GPS location 42.24804, 80.14361 Date/Time:08/06/2012 18:50:04 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=42.24804%2C%2080.14361&q=42.24804N%2080.14361E&form=LMLTSN&cp=42.2480666092677~80.14361000000001&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=42.24804,80.14361&ll=42.24804,80.14361&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Aug7: We took food and other supplies up to Camp1 and cashed tents and gas half way up to Camp2 at 4900m, 8h. Sleeping at C1. Tomorrow up to C2. Feeling weak 😦

GPS location 42.232, 80.15709 Date/Time:08/07/2012 17:55:42 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=42.232%2C%2080.15709&q=42.232N%2080.15709E&form=LMLTSN&cp=42.23202659430393~80.15709&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=42.232,80.15709&ll=42.232,80.15709&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Aug8: We woke up under a snow storm. We run down to BC to avoid getting trapped at C1. Quite nasty day I hate it! Thinking on my beautiful Sister, Happy Bday ♥

 

Aug9: Lots of avalanches, people going down to escape from disaster. Waiting at BC for the snow to transform. I took a bath in the glacier! Feeling strong again

GPS location 42.24804, 80.14365 Date/Time:08/09/2012 19:21:08 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=42.24804%2C%2080.14365&q=42.24804N%2080.14365E&form=LMLTSN&cp=42.2480666092677~80.14365&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=42.24804,80.14365&ll=42.24804,80.14365&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Aug10: Taking more food and gas up to C1. I feel very strong and want to move to C2, people advise me to rest at C1. I miss my people… Ready to rock and roll!

GPS location 42.23198, 80.1571 Date/Time:08/10/2012 17:43:05 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=42.23198%2C%2080.1571&q=42.23198N%2080.1571E&form=LMLTSN&cp=42.23200659428526~80.15709999999998&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=42.23198,80.1571&ll=42.23198,80.1571&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Aug11: Moving from C1 to C2 with 25kg backpack. Extremely hard 9h work. 900m technical ascent on a crest full of snow ice and rock. Smashed… but so beautiful!

GPS location 42.22274, 80.15147 Date/Time:08/11/2012 18:04:11 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=42.22274%2C%2080.15147&q=42.22274N%2080.15147E&form=LMLTSN&cp=42.222766585668694~80.15147000000002&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=42.22274,80.15147&ll=42.22274,80.15147&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Aug12: Last night we got the worst news, snow storm threatens Khan Tengri. We have to abandon 😦 I’ve got CO2 intoxication in the tent and feel sick. Sad day…

GPS location 42.24804, 80.14359 Date/Time:08/12/2012 20:15:42 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=42.24804%2C%2080.14359&q=42.24804N%2080.14359E&form=LMLTSN&cp=42.26164756104794~80.19630013766716&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=42.24804,80.14359&ll=42.24804,80.14359&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Aug13: Yesterday 7h of technical descent with 30+kg backpack. I had so much fun! But I was exhausted. We take the heli today escaping from storm. Game is over.

 

Aug14: Thank you so much to everybody who sent me oxygen from the distance while I was fighting to conquer “The Lord of the Skies”. We could not get any higher than 5500m due to bad weather and avalanches which took down two austrian climbers. We had several warnings and I think we made the right decision when we got the weather forecast at Camp2. Back at the heli base we were informed Khan Tengri and Pobeda have claimed two lives this season, and several climbers were injured due to rock falling and avalanches. On the bright side of the things we are coming back home with 12 summits (four in my case) from a virgin mountain range where most peaks remain unclimbed.

Right now I have mixed feelings… not because we failed to summit our 7000 but because this has been, once again, a life changing experience… These days I’ve discovered things about myself and the people around me that make me feel sad. Before I left Dubai few weeks back I had a clear idea of where I wanted to go tomorrow, but today I have no clue about it. All I know is I want to be in High Places… I’ll be back home on Monday ready to climb, fly, and preparing for my next challenge that will take place on March 2013. I have about one moth to tight things before I make it official at work. I’ll keep you posted 🙂

 

Aug14: Fun night yesterday eating pizza, singing karaoke and drinking vodka at Karakol. Just leaving to a resort at Issyk Kul lake to chill out for few days.

 

Aug16: Yesterday I had a fantastic day in the beach in Tamche, at the north side of Issyk Kul lake, taking photos with the locals (they love it), playing voleibol and soccer with them and my climbing buddies, and dancing in a creepy disco full of teenagers. The people in this side of the world seem to be nice but made of steel and quite enigmatic. It’s a hidden paradise for climbers but definetely not a place where I’d like to live. Today we are heading back to Bishkek where I’m organizing a short rafting trip. I must admit that I’m missing home, my training routine, and small things in my regular daily life. And I miss my Harley, my ever green terrace, koi fish tank, amarilis flowers, and many other things in my home country. Crossing over the Liffey river every single day, listening to irish balads on Sunday morning, and trekking from Houth to Greystones on rainy weekends. I miss España and I miss beautiful Ireland ♥

 

Aug18: Leaving Kyrgyzstan and heading back home. I have the feeling I’ll be back one day… Khan Tengri, this time you made it hard for us, but I’ll see you soon 🙂

Tien Shan Unclimbed Peaks & Lord of the Skies – Dispatches from the expedition Part I

Jul21: Landed in Bishkek after a crazy and stressful day. I just met one of my climbing partners from Australia and guess what he is bringing with him… his mountain paraglider!!!! Life is full of surprises!

 

Jul22: Crazy night at Bishkek.., not a good start for a 7000! From tomorrow I have to behave :p

 

Jul22: Enjoying the city with my new Kyrzyg friends. Awesome hosts, I have no clue how I’m going to show them my gratitude…

GPS location 42.85978, 74.60008 Date/Time:07/22/2012 09:18:11 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=42.85978%2C%2074.60008&q=42.85978N%2074.60008E&form=LMLTSN&cp=42.85980718571956~74.60008000000002&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=42.85978,74.60008&ll=42.85978,74.60008&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Jul22: Today I met the rest of expedition team members. We have all sort of characters, one Everest summiter and two young Iranian ladies. Getting ready for a 6 hours drive on an old russian truck to Tamga village

 

Jul23: Leaving to Tamga village, and tomorrow to Jentim-Bel. 700km on an old russian truck before starting the first set of climbs in the unclimbed mountain range

GPS location 42.1575, 77.52773 Date/Time:07/23/2012 16:13:27 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=42.1575%2C%2077.52773&q=42.1575N%2077.52773E&form=LMLTSN&cp=42.15752652490211~77.52773000000003&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=42.1575,77.52773&ll=42.1575,77.52773&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Jul23: Last night before starting our true adventure. Tomorrow we leave Tamga to set our basecamp in the middle of a virgin area. From there the action will follow!

 

Jul24: Good morning beautiful peaks! Cant wait to test my new ice tools! I’ll be offline for about 10 days before heading to my 7000 I’ll update our location with Spot

GPS location 41.80879, 77.57567 Date/Time:07/24/2012 17:22:34 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=41.80879%2C%2077.57567&q=41.80879N%2077.57567E&form=LMLTSN&cp=41.808816202211865~77.57567000000001&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=41.80879,77.57567&ll=41.80879,77.57567&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Jul25: The team is fantastic with all sort of characters, the valley beautiful but hostile, our Base Camp is taking form and we start exploring climbing options

GPS location 41.80204, 77.56298 Date/Time:07/25/2012 12:02:33 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=41.80204%2C%2077.56298&q=41.80204N%2077.56298E&form=LMLTSN&cp=41.802066196000254~77.56298&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=41.80204,77.56298&ll=41.80204,77.56298&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Jul26: We summited our first unclimbed 4200m. Mariam almost had a fatal accident and I had extreme dehidration on the way down, not a good start, I’m not strong

GPS location 41.80061, 77.54311 Date/Time:07/26/2012 13:42:11 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=41.80061%2C%2077.54311&q=41.80061N%2077.54311E&form=LMLTSN&cp=41.800636194684486~77.54311&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=41.80061,77.54311&ll=41.80061,77.54311&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Jul27: Yesterday I was so badly dehidrated that I ended up with edema in my feet causing bleeding under my nails, again.. Resting today at BC, worried, unhappy

GPS location 41.80901, 77.57575 Date/Time:07/27/2012 18:35:41 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=41.80901%2C%2077.57575&q=41.80901N%2077.57575E&form=LMLTSN&cp=41.809036202414326~77.57575&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=41.80901,77.57575&ll=41.80901,77.57575&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Jul28: We summited our second unclimbed 4350m First one took us 11h this one 9 and still I feel weak descending. Team has split so that we can attack many peaks

GPS location 41.81832, 77.50503 Date/Time:07/28/2012 09:44:18 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=41.81832%2C%2077.50503&q=41.81832N%2077.50503E&form=LMLTSN&cp=41.818346210983954~77.50503&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=41.81832,77.50503&ll=41.81832,77.50503&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Jul29: 3rd summit. Very long beautiful crest 4155m. I’m teaming with a paraglider from Oz, Iranian doctor girl, and old fireman Everest summiter. My feet is bad

GPS location 41.75946, 77.56577 Date/Time:07/29/2012 11:06:41 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=41.75946%2C%2077.56577&q=41.75946N%2077.56577E&form=LMLTSN&cp=41.75948615684669~77.56576999999998&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=41.75946,77.56577&ll=41.75946,77.56577&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Jul30: Resting at BC 3260m. Bath and laundry in the river. Training with ropes. Wild horses and marmots everywhere. Team moral is awesome. Mine is not good…

GPS location 41.80901, 77.57575 Date/Time:07/30/2012 18:24:40 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=41.80901%2C%2077.57575&q=41.80901N%2077.57575E&form=LMLTSN&cp=41.809036202414326~77.57575&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=41.80901,77.57575&ll=41.80901,77.57575&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Jul31: 4rd unclimbed summit 4105m. Good fun! Amir had an accident and cut his hand very badly. I feel strong, feet healed. Rains a lot again. Missing my people

GPS location 41.82518, 77.59697 Date/Time:07/31/2012 11:02:50 GST

http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&where1=41.82518%2C%2077.59697&q=41.82518N%2077.59697E&form=LMLTSN&cp=41.825206217300014~77.59697&lvl=12&sty=b&encType=1

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=41.82518,77.59697&ll=41.82518,77.59697&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

 

Jul31: Writing from our gorgeous hidden valley with no signal, but hopefully these updates will go through in two days from Karakol. The week has been amazing but hard

 

Aug1: Today the whole team decided to rest at BC and we had a fantastic day. I went for three hours walk down the valley to photograph the wild horses, amazing!

 

Aug2: We left our virgin mountains and made our way through the Tosor Pass back to Tamga. We r so happy loads of alcohol tonight before heading the big mountain

Check-in/OK message from Clayton SPOT Messenger

Clayton
Latitude:42.15264
Longitude:77.5429
GPS location Date/Time:08/03/2012 07:18:18 GST

Message:

Everything goes well with my expedition, wish my luck!

Todo va bien con mi expedicion, desearme suerte!

Custom message from Clayton SPOT Messenger

Clayton
Latitude:41.82518
Longitude:77.59697
GPS location Date/Time:07/31/2012 11:02:50 GST

Message:

We just made one of the Summits!!!

Hemos hecho una de las cumbres!!!

Check-in/OK message from Clayton SPOT Messenger

Clayton
Latitude:41.80901
Longitude:77.57575
GPS location Date/Time:07/30/2012 18:24:40 GST

Message:

Everything goes well with my expedition, wish my luck!

Todo va bien con mi expedicion, desearme suerte!

Custom message from Clayton SPOT Messenger

Clayton
Latitude:41.75946
Longitude:77.56577
GPS location Date/Time:07/29/2012 11:06:41 GST

Message:

We just made one of the Summits!!!

Hemos hecho una de las cumbres!!!

Custom message from Clayton SPOT Messenger

Clayton
Latitude:41.81832
Longitude:77.50503
GPS location Date/Time:07/28/2012 09:44:18 GST

Message:

We just made one of the Summits!!!

Hemos hecho una de las cumbres!!!

Check-in/OK message from Clayton SPOT Messenger

Clayton
Latitude:41.80901
Longitude:77.57575
GPS location Date/Time:07/27/2012 18:35:41 GST

Message:

Everything goes well with my expedition, wish my luck!

Todo va bien con mi expedicion, desearme suerte!

Custom message from Clayton SPOT Messenger

Clayton
Latitude:41.80424
Longitude:77.53712
GPS location Date/Time:07/26/2012 14:31:12 GST

Message:

We just made one of the Summits!!!

Hemos hecho una de las cumbres!!!

Check-in/OK message from Clayton SPOT Messenger

Clayton
Latitude:41.80061
Longitude:77.54311
GPS location Date/Time:07/26/2012 13:42:11 GST

Message:

Everything goes well with my expedition, wish my luck!

Todo va bien con mi expedicion, desearme suerte!