Tien Shan Unclimbed Peaks & Lord of the Skies – Dispatches from the expedition Part I

Jul21: Landed in Bishkek after a crazy and stressful day. I just met one of my climbing partners from Australia and guess what he is bringing with him… his mountain paraglider!!!! Life is full of surprises!


Jul22: Crazy night at Bishkek.., not a good start for a 7000! From tomorrow I have to behave :p


Jul22: Enjoying the city with my new Kyrzyg friends. Awesome hosts, I have no clue how I’m going to show them my gratitude…

GPS location 42.85978, 74.60008 Date/Time:07/22/2012 09:18:11 GST




Jul22: Today I met the rest of expedition team members. We have all sort of characters, one Everest summiter and two young Iranian ladies. Getting ready for a 6 hours drive on an old russian truck to Tamga village


Jul23: Leaving to Tamga village, and tomorrow to Jentim-Bel. 700km on an old russian truck before starting the first set of climbs in the unclimbed mountain range

GPS location 42.1575, 77.52773 Date/Time:07/23/2012 16:13:27 GST




Jul23: Last night before starting our true adventure. Tomorrow we leave Tamga to set our basecamp in the middle of a virgin area. From there the action will follow!


Jul24: Good morning beautiful peaks! Cant wait to test my new ice tools! I’ll be offline for about 10 days before heading to my 7000 I’ll update our location with Spot

GPS location 41.80879, 77.57567 Date/Time:07/24/2012 17:22:34 GST




Jul25: The team is fantastic with all sort of characters, the valley beautiful but hostile, our Base Camp is taking form and we start exploring climbing options

GPS location 41.80204, 77.56298 Date/Time:07/25/2012 12:02:33 GST




Jul26: We summited our first unclimbed 4200m. Mariam almost had a fatal accident and I had extreme dehidration on the way down, not a good start, I’m not strong

GPS location 41.80061, 77.54311 Date/Time:07/26/2012 13:42:11 GST




Jul27: Yesterday I was so badly dehidrated that I ended up with edema in my feet causing bleeding under my nails, again.. Resting today at BC, worried, unhappy

GPS location 41.80901, 77.57575 Date/Time:07/27/2012 18:35:41 GST




Jul28: We summited our second unclimbed 4350m First one took us 11h this one 9 and still I feel weak descending. Team has split so that we can attack many peaks

GPS location 41.81832, 77.50503 Date/Time:07/28/2012 09:44:18 GST




Jul29: 3rd summit. Very long beautiful crest 4155m. I’m teaming with a paraglider from Oz, Iranian doctor girl, and old fireman Everest summiter. My feet is bad

GPS location 41.75946, 77.56577 Date/Time:07/29/2012 11:06:41 GST




Jul30: Resting at BC 3260m. Bath and laundry in the river. Training with ropes. Wild horses and marmots everywhere. Team moral is awesome. Mine is not good…

GPS location 41.80901, 77.57575 Date/Time:07/30/2012 18:24:40 GST




Jul31: 4rd unclimbed summit 4105m. Good fun! Amir had an accident and cut his hand very badly. I feel strong, feet healed. Rains a lot again. Missing my people

GPS location 41.82518, 77.59697 Date/Time:07/31/2012 11:02:50 GST




Jul31: Writing from our gorgeous hidden valley with no signal, but hopefully these updates will go through in two days from Karakol. The week has been amazing but hard


Aug1: Today the whole team decided to rest at BC and we had a fantastic day. I went for three hours walk down the valley to photograph the wild horses, amazing!


Aug2: We left our virgin mountains and made our way through the Tosor Pass back to Tamga. We r so happy loads of alcohol tonight before heading the big mountain

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