Tien Shan Unclimbed Peaks & Lord of the Skies – Dispatches from the expedition Part II

Aug2: Just had the most hilarious night with my climbing team mates. Alcoholic night before we get back to the mountains. These folks are awesome, I LOVE CLIMBING ♥


Aug3: We just arrived to Karakol where I have good internet connectivity. Before I could just send updates via satellite, but no seeing comments on them, your kind words, blessings and wishes… You all have no idea of how happy I feel today, after reading ALL of them. The week has been hard, and this is just the beginning of this adventure up to the top of a difficult 7000m. THANK YOU SO MUCH for your support, now my batteries are fully charged with all your positive energy. I need to sort out some logistics in this village but I’ll reply to you all tonight!


Aug3: Some of my team mates went to sleep already while some of us are so nervous that we can’t make it yet, despite of the fact tomorrow we have a very early start, 6 hours drive to a small airstrip where we’ll take a russian helicopter to fly all the way up to Base Camp. I wish I’d feel stronger on the legs, but I can’t feel better on my heart after reading your comments today. I LOVE CLIMBING AND I LOVE MY FRIENDS ♥

GPS location 42.15264, 77.5429 Date/Time:08/03/2012 07:18:18 GST




Aug4: The hotel at Karakol was like a palace, but we have to leave for 6h drive to an airstrip where a russian helicopter will take us to Khan Tengri BC!

GPS location 42.08675, 79.24471 Date/Time:08/04/2012 16:19:58 GST




Aug5: Heli flight was delayed till this morning. We had 30 min amazing flight over Inylchek glacier to land in front of Khan Tengri, breathtaking experience!!!

GPS location 42.24804, 80.14363 Date/Time:08/05/2012 18:51:17 GST




Aug6: Yesterday we crossed the glacier and cashed tents and gear close to BC 4005m. Today we set up Camp1 at 4500m and back to BC. 8h of hard yet beautiful work

GPS location 42.232, 80.1571 Date/Time:08/06/2012 10:41:59 GST



GPS location 42.24804, 80.14361 Date/Time:08/06/2012 18:50:04 GST




Aug7: We took food and other supplies up to Camp1 and cashed tents and gas half way up to Camp2 at 4900m, 8h. Sleeping at C1. Tomorrow up to C2. Feeling weak 😦

GPS location 42.232, 80.15709 Date/Time:08/07/2012 17:55:42 GST




Aug8: We woke up under a snow storm. We run down to BC to avoid getting trapped at C1. Quite nasty day I hate it! Thinking on my beautiful Sister, Happy Bday ♥


Aug9: Lots of avalanches, people going down to escape from disaster. Waiting at BC for the snow to transform. I took a bath in the glacier! Feeling strong again

GPS location 42.24804, 80.14365 Date/Time:08/09/2012 19:21:08 GST




Aug10: Taking more food and gas up to C1. I feel very strong and want to move to C2, people advise me to rest at C1. I miss my people… Ready to rock and roll!

GPS location 42.23198, 80.1571 Date/Time:08/10/2012 17:43:05 GST




Aug11: Moving from C1 to C2 with 25kg backpack. Extremely hard 9h work. 900m technical ascent on a crest full of snow ice and rock. Smashed… but so beautiful!

GPS location 42.22274, 80.15147 Date/Time:08/11/2012 18:04:11 GST




Aug12: Last night we got the worst news, snow storm threatens Khan Tengri. We have to abandon 😦 I’ve got CO2 intoxication in the tent and feel sick. Sad day…

GPS location 42.24804, 80.14359 Date/Time:08/12/2012 20:15:42 GST




Aug13: Yesterday 7h of technical descent with 30+kg backpack. I had so much fun! But I was exhausted. We take the heli today escaping from storm. Game is over.


Aug14: Thank you so much to everybody who sent me oxygen from the distance while I was fighting to conquer “The Lord of the Skies”. We could not get any higher than 5500m due to bad weather and avalanches which took down two austrian climbers. We had several warnings and I think we made the right decision when we got the weather forecast at Camp2. Back at the heli base we were informed Khan Tengri and Pobeda have claimed two lives this season, and several climbers were injured due to rock falling and avalanches. On the bright side of the things we are coming back home with 12 summits (four in my case) from a virgin mountain range where most peaks remain unclimbed.

Right now I have mixed feelings… not because we failed to summit our 7000 but because this has been, once again, a life changing experience… These days I’ve discovered things about myself and the people around me that make me feel sad. Before I left Dubai few weeks back I had a clear idea of where I wanted to go tomorrow, but today I have no clue about it. All I know is I want to be in High Places… I’ll be back home on Monday ready to climb, fly, and preparing for my next challenge that will take place on March 2013. I have about one moth to tight things before I make it official at work. I’ll keep you posted 🙂


Aug14: Fun night yesterday eating pizza, singing karaoke and drinking vodka at Karakol. Just leaving to a resort at Issyk Kul lake to chill out for few days.


Aug16: Yesterday I had a fantastic day in the beach in Tamche, at the north side of Issyk Kul lake, taking photos with the locals (they love it), playing voleibol and soccer with them and my climbing buddies, and dancing in a creepy disco full of teenagers. The people in this side of the world seem to be nice but made of steel and quite enigmatic. It’s a hidden paradise for climbers but definetely not a place where I’d like to live. Today we are heading back to Bishkek where I’m organizing a short rafting trip. I must admit that I’m missing home, my training routine, and small things in my regular daily life. And I miss my Harley, my ever green terrace, koi fish tank, amarilis flowers, and many other things in my home country. Crossing over the Liffey river every single day, listening to irish balads on Sunday morning, and trekking from Houth to Greystones on rainy weekends. I miss España and I miss beautiful Ireland ♥


Aug18: Leaving Kyrgyzstan and heading back home. I have the feeling I’ll be back one day… Khan Tengri, this time you made it hard for us, but I’ll see you soon 🙂

One thought on “Tien Shan Unclimbed Peaks & Lord of the Skies – Dispatches from the expedition Part II

  1. Mousa says:

    nice blog ,
    so which touring company you used to arrange this expedition , do you recommend any guide in Tajikistan , as i am planning to do Somoni Peak

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