Khan Tengri Expedition’12 – Lessons learned

With more time in Khan Tengri and investing a big amount of time waiting for proper weather windows, we could probably have this amazing 7000m peak in our pockets.

Other lessons learned on the personal side of the things:

The stronger climbers in the team were those with a good climbing buddy. Conquering mountains this magnitude without a good friend covering your back, could be as challenging as I never imagined.

Dehydration was challenging at all times… for the next expedition use 2×1 liter insulated Nalgene bottles plus 500ml lightweight bottle to carry in my down jacket.

Figure of 8 descenders are bulky and old fashion, but on icy ropes is the only way to get down. A backup ATC is light and very useful for belaying a second and self recovery. Triblocks are an amazing piece of gear as long as you don’t drop them down the hill… next time get it linked to the carabiner. Keep the gear in the harness to the bare minimum. Simplify the lanyard connecting the jumar to your harness, daisy chains are messy and not useful. The locking carabiner on the lanyard should be big and easy to action with big globes or mitts, such the Petzl Vertigo which is a via ferrata carabiner with an auto-locking mechanism that unlocks quickly and easily for frequent use.

Having spare batteries for the headlamp is not enough… better to have a spare headlamp.

Keep precise tracking of the freeze dried food you are moving between camps, or you might end up with six breakfast and deserts but only three dinners at high camps…

No matter how much your climbing partners complain in the tent, always keep the air flowing

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