Tien-Shan unclimbed peaks and “Lord of the Skies” – A completely different adventure…10 days to go!

Today I have a 10 days countdown to start this year’s big expedition. I’m just missing some gear, paperwork and medical checks but I have almost everything tied up, and now I want to share more details about the whole adventure.

My dream expedition in Pakistan had to be postponed… It’s been almost three months fighting to get the required resources, forming a team, and finding some sponsorship to make the dream come true. Unfortunately, the current social and political situation in Pakistan is not good enough to get a minimum number of climbers joining the team to cut down expenses. My dream has turned out into something less romantic but definitely more adventurous, with an extreme taste of exploration and passion for true mountaineering:

My goal this year is to climb three virgin peaks, never climbed by humans up to date, somewhere in the Tien-Shan Mountain Range in Kyrgyzstan, and going directly from there up to the top of what it´s considered the most beautiful mountain on earth, Khan Tengri, “The Lord of the Skies”. This a gigantic marble rock pyramid raising up to 7010m (23000ft) and located on the China—Kyrgyzstan—Kazakhstan border. It is also the world’s most northern 7000m peak, meaning that the air on top will be as thinner as in some of the big eight thousanders that I’m chasing.

I’ve been training hard for about a year and a half, and although I still feel not ready for my first 8000, this will definitely be a big test and amazing cultural experience…


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